Ippudo Ramen Fanciness

EATERY:

Hakata Ippudo

LOCATION:

65 4th Avenue (9th and 10th St), New York, NY 10003

REVIEWS:

I've been waiting for this place to open all month, having heard that it was a quintessential japanese chain and would finally be the undisputed first choice of e. village ramen joints. But before I even mention the ramen, I should explain: What appeals to my cheap-ass side about ramen places is the contrast between the very informal experience (grabbing a spot at the grungy, cramped bar, barking one word to the chef who gives barely so much as a nod, inhaling a bowl and being out 5 minutes later) and the product itself (most often a richly complex and highly personal creation where even the smallest details are obsessed over and analyzed by fans). Yet, this place is trying very hard to be above that, and it sort of destroys the cheap-ass sensibility. I guess one could treat it like any normal modern-ey restaurant with self conscious interior design, overly eager service, and free jazz playing in the background, but for me it is just too distracting from what should be the best cheap comfort food on the planet.

RANTS & RAVES:

So now that I have that out of my system, the ramen itself is fine... and the soup in particular is outstanding... tonkotsu (pork bone) soup. I've tried all of them now, and although I have an ethical dilemma when it comes to pairing tonkotsu broth with thin, straight noodles (it tends to end up a slimy mess), this place has managed to make the tonkotsu broth rich without being heavy (like at Minca). I know I take this all way to seriously. There was quite a lot of hype, though! In summary, this is a decent bowl of ramen, made by people who are messing with my world-view...

TAGS:

East Village Ramen Japanese Pretense